This noses nicely. Which is to say, there’s door grease scooped with a brass shoe horn into a halved bell pepper. There’s some fine motor oil, the kind that’s only used for Bentleys or Maybachs. Then a cascade of palm hearts, rose petal hot and sour soup, and surgeon’s gloves after the first successful double navel transplant operation.
The mouth is, at first, redolent with fermented grain. A hard call, that one, I know. But immediately it becomes rich and robust before slowly shading into something big and complex. Think of the slide between an ordinary, mature cypress tree and Groot, and you’ll get the idea. It is both tannic and tropical. I get soil, army ants, fragrant flowers before fruiting, and an abandoned macaque village.
The finish has bamboo shoot or reed-like quality. I’m squeezed into Moses’s basket, the edges bending tightly around my shoulders. My provisions include lemon lollipops and Amsterdam lens grinder salve. But above all else, I need to give a shout-out to the non-chill filtration on this beauty. It really ties it all together.
–Our thanks to Teeling for the sample–and Happy St. Patrick’s Day!