Open your nostrils, and you’ll find yourself at a pancake kitchen on a Sunday morning, with juvenile delinquents milling about as they prepare for the feast of Saint Dominic Savio (it’ll start on time, but they’ve fenced all the utensils). One of the pancakes is burned, but it’s skillfully covered up with a delicious caramel made out of ox tallow. Smell it again, and you realize that it’s not made out of ox tallow (turns out that was fenced, too). The under note there is dark, wild: it’s wildebeest marrow, scraped from the rock hard bones with a seeping ruby. What in the world have these kids been up to?
Open your mouth and taste a bright high note, like a first chair English horn leading a squadron into battle. It’s slightly reedy, grassy, but fruity, like Gregor Mendel’s little known mango-bermuda grass hybrid (they’re very skinny). It’s like a fruit from an alternate dimension that is to oranges as oranges are to pencil erasers. Then come the low notes, the start of the burn that will become the finish. High citrus notes and low notes of a completely different sort, like regret or burning spite or perhaps lack of consummation. The combo is oddly bucolic and vitriolic, but much more aggressive than hateful.
Start to finish, and you find it fires off on your palate in a beautifully lazy way. There’s also a faint fishy note mixed with a caramel-ly tannic one: it’s a pork and baby piranha consummé (which does not actually satisfy the lack of consummation from before), ladled over a perfect wheat crouton. Object to eating baby piranhas? But there’s pork in there, and the wheat crouton is perfect!
The Singleton of Dufftown 28 Year 2013 Limited Edition is the feeling of just having cut down a dying tree on your property–You’re filthy with phloem and zany from xylem, but it’s quite the feeling of accomplishment. And for a while afterwards, there will be a hole where it used to be.
–Our thanks to Hunter PR and Diageo for the samples!