On the nose, this dram is concentrated honey and syrupy treacle coating a pair of carefully peeled grapefruits undulating on a waterbed filled with banana bread batter made from green plantains instead of bananas. Wow, is this nose ever a sweet treat to behold! I find myself forever going back and forth between saying, “Duuuude…” and “Sweeeet!” I wish it were possible to make a syrup for pancakes that tastes the way this dram smells. Duuuuude, it’s sooo sweeeeet!
Carrying on… The mouth is rich and slightly oily in feel, but decidedly more cherried than the nose. Think artisanal cherry sore throat lozenges made by mustachioed hipsters in knickers (oh wait, that’s all of them). And they’re made from cherries grown in Theodore’s Window Box Greenhouse in Brooklyn–and watered with the perspiration his undersized vest and tiny hat absorbed during the recent heat wave in the area. And the cherries have Mumford & Sons played to them 12 hours a day. And they love it. You can tell because it really comes through in the cough drops sore throat lozenges. On the palate, there’s also something so sweet and bright it almost burns the tongue, but it’s right next to a ridiculously refined and subtle set of flavors, like those you’d imagine to detect if you smelled a lead crystal decanter in Baron Rothschild’s personal library, shortly after it had been drained of its very XO and extremely Hors d’âge contents.
The finish is subtle, but it lingers beautifully across the entire palate. Imagine the cloying and pervasive presence of the aftertaste of a can of Pabst Blue Ribbon. Now imagine it’s really good. I know, I know. Just try–if you can do it, it’s the kind of thing that makes your mind more flexible and thus more capable of distinguishing new tastes from old ones you already know. And if you can do this in particular, you’ll see what I’m saying, and you’ll run out to buy a bottle if you can find one.
The Bunnahabhain 1991 from The Exclusive Casks is having a fully retractable roof and six feet of top-grade soil in raised beds on the top floor of your house.–Exactly. You’d have a hard time doing any better than this.
–Our thanks to Sam Filmus and ImpEx for the sample!
And if you want an idea of what the full bottle looks like, check out this picture below of their Auchroisk we recently reviewed (we reviewed the sample–and thus photographed it–but then we went out and bought a bottle). And what a handsome bottle it is…