The John Milroy Glen Moray 1996 19yo noses akin to the sensation–I imagine–of a glow-worm burrowing its way from the interior of a Comice pear into a grapefruit, and from that into a perfectly ripe Alampur Baneshan mango, and exiting that into the side of soapstone/acacia wood bowl that’s also loaded down with peaches and manna. It’s electrifying, like a MoRay-O-vacbattery or a Glen Electric Moray Eel. (Sorry.) There are some green fruits, too, and wax-laden butterscotch Q-tips made from pine needle shafts and marshmallow puffs that were used by a jolly leprechaun who evidently failed to heed the warnings of wise old leprechaun otologists.
The mouth really brings the caramel and ex-bourbon cask vanilla. (Please, please, please don’t let it have been a sherry cask!) Vibrant, lively, bright, and piquant: It’s an amazing chutney on whitefish grilled over redwood boles. There are plums that moonlight as auto mechanics and recently vacuumed oriental rugs. Persian kittens licking their noses and mine, too. (That adorable sandpapery thing going on!) Meee-ow!
The finish introduces a complex note of origami pterodactyls made from corrugated cardboard, that was in turn made from recycled asparagus pulp. Grilled oysters in tarragon pesto. It’s gloriously long, tingly and tangly–but not at all jangly.
–Our thanks to Lauren Shayne Mayer and Spirit Imports for the sample!