The Kilchoman 2007 nose opens with oat scones—no maple frosting, alas—smoked over driftwood and flash-dried seaweed. Tween-age barley, enjoying a more innocent time, or at least a more nostalgic time, at the malt shop. Falling into a giant vat of Grape-Nuts™ on a tour of a Post Cereals plant, and rather than seeking succor, instead swimming and frolicking like a totemic otter.
On the mouth, oily and curdish, but not curdled (but maybe curdling). “Welcome back to Islay, laddie, how’ve ye been?” One thinks immediately of siphoning off the inessentials and powering racecars or rocketships. A cooking oil so powerful that Iron Chefs use it in a wok to cook squid without any external heat source.
The finish is one note, well-struck, on a Big Nipple Gong. The baritone timbre is perfect. The sonorous quality is timeless and filled with gravitas. A rotund rhetorician. An orotund orator. A Handel oratorio—the note fills heaven as calmly and as inevitably as the tide.
The Kilchoman 2007 Vintage is Astroglide–When you start to maltgonewild, or even maltgonewildmaltgonewild, then nothing can compare as you maltgonewildmaltgonewildmaltgonewild. It just makes everything better, like cheese, chocolate, and bacon do.
–Our thanks to Sam Filmus and ImpEx for the sample!