Imagine you smoked some Vidalia onions, then grilled them whole, then diced them fine, then sautéed them in lighter fluid. Then imagine you open a magnum of claret and dumped the whole thing across the bare back of a wild stallion (who let you do it). Add a few vegetal notes, the aroma of a mum in full bloom just outside the window of the baby’s room, and someone waving a burnt-end spear in a threatening, Lord of the Flies kind of way, and you have the nose on this whisky. I know, it seems random, but it’s not. I could explain the connections between each of those and how exactly the Loch Gorm leads through one and into the next, but as with a joke, such an explanation would take away all the fun. The palate presents with the tastes one would expect to get from a hookah filled with burgundy wine burning strawberry tobacco. There’s also a raw, unpasteurized feel to the mouth, like drinking sherry that had been dry peated at a new “artisanal” bodega. Drinking this, you can easily imagine that the sherry had been kidnapped and tortured until Stockholm Syndrome set in (“But I love peat!!”). The fruit flavors from the sherry influence are lush and full of juice. Water improves the dram overall, but it does little to undercut the dominant phenols on the finish. There, it’s all phenol, y’all.
The Kilchoman Loch Gorm Sherry Cask Matured is maturing it in former whisky barrels–Doing it the other way around is far preferable, as this whisky makes abundantly clear.
–Our thanks to Sam Filmus and ImpEx for the sample!